We are staying 2 nights in Fez (last night and tonight) before we hit the desert and rougher accommodations.  So, we are enjoying this lovely hotel experience: king-sized bed, hot water, and even a balcony to dry a bit of laundry.

After a visit to a fortress and a quick view of the city from above, we went to a tile and pottery coop. Wow, I was surprized to learn that they still produce tiles in the same way that they always have. The clay from Fez is grey and has no lead in it so is safe for food vessels. This type of clay is not found anywhere else in Morocco and because it fires at a much higher temperature it is much stronger and the colours remain vibrant for hundreds of years. There are many traditional colours and each tile is unique as to how the glaze looks after the firing so the overall effect is lovely. The tiles are all cut by hand with a chisel type hammer and then laid upside down to create the designs. Only after a cement is poured over it and fiberglass (not an ancient technique) is the piece turned over and he design revealed. To say that I was excited to see all those gorgeous tiles, not to mention the fountains and tables, would be an understatement. Everything costs a million dollars in this tourist trap but one of the chiselers gave me a bag of broken tile for my sister’s mosaics.

After the palace we headed out to the Medina, but not before we had a refreshing drink of sugar cane with lemon and ginger purported to cure many things (uti, sti, cancer, etc.) So, basically, I think I am good to go. We then entered through a large gate into the Medina. It was mind boggling. There are over 9000 alleyways in this Medina which is the largest in Morocco. The sun hardly enters the alleyways and although it was a warm day, Rudy shivered in his shorts and wished for socks, pants, and another warm sweater. Our guide was from the Medina and explained how new furniture was brought into the houses. The couches (or whatever) had to be raised to the rooftops and then carried over neighbours’ houses until you reached your own. Then the large skylight in your courtyard was opened and the piece of furniture lowered into your house. Our guide explained that there was no theft in the Medina as basically all the neighbours kept an eye on everyone else. Nothing a person does or says stays a secret for long.

Our first stop in the food section of the market was a place where a woman was making filo pastry. She had balls of pastry dough swimming in sunflower oil in a large tub. She rolled out each ball very thinly and laid it over a large cast iron cooking ball that was heated by a gas heater. The dough cooked quickly. Then a Moroccan “jam” (crushed almonds, dates, and honey) was spread on the pieces. It was so delicious. There were a lot of sweets in the market. The group was on a roll and treats were bought and shared around. The dates are especially delicious, so large and so juicy.

Then it was off to lunch. Some of these group lunches are less than great. I am sure that there is some exchange of money or favours for each of the places we go (both food and handicraft) and the price is often elevated and the quality lowered. This was the case with lunch. Rudy was freezing so ordered the beef tangine to warm himself. The dish, when it arrived, reminded me of some childhood Sunday dinners. The pastor at church, being especially inspired, would go on too long and the beef roast in the oven at home became tougher and dryer by the minute. The vegetables, on the other hand would overcook to mush. Suffice to say that the experience was not entirely pleasant.

And, things were beginning to brew in the group. Our Aussie friends were subjected to some dinner time conversation that was cutting and very uncomfortable to listen too. But more about that later.

The textile area was next. Pots of dyes bubbled on the streets where agave silk and cotton were placed to be dyed into any colour you wanted. We visited a place where men wove cloth on giant looms. Some of our group brought scarves that they will use in the desert when we go on our camel ride.

The tannery was next. Basically, it wasn’t much of a tour. But, to be able to look off the balcony and see the tannery below, was worth the harassment to buy leather goods afterwards. It was like something out of Monty Python or the game Carcasonne.  We learned that initially the hides are thrown into the white vats that are filled with lime, pigeon guano, cow urine, and salt to soften and remove hair, fat, and flesh.  Then they are placed in the vats containing natural dyes and finally set in the sun to dry. But tanning facts aside, I must get into the building drama of the day. Mutterings and unkind words and some snickering escalated and the tension was increasing. Our complainer, was upset with waiting for all the shoppers and by the time we got back to the van, words had been exchanged, the day guide had been argued with and a temper exploded. What ensued was a very awkward yelling fest while the rest of us sat in uncomfortable silence. The experienced guide tried to bring reason and explanation to bear but the two women were having none of it and yelled over him.  We managed to get going back towards the hotel only to have some shopkeeper run up with news that we should await a few minutes for another package. (Ooo. More fuel added to the fires of discontent.) Another stop at the grocery caused more trouble and by the time we got back to the hotel I thought that some of us innocent bystanders would need therapy.