Paris, Day Twenty-five

Centre Georges Pompidou - with colourful utility pipes outlandishly located on the outside, houses art and film exhibitions.
Centre Georges Pompidou – with colourful utility pipes outlandishly located on the outside, houses art and film exhibitions.
It looked a little ‘gloomy’ outside when we awoke today. Rain. Grey sky. Almost too dark to read in our apartment without turning the lights on. Add to that the news that my NY Giants lost AGAIN last night, making them 0-6 for the season! Now I know what it must feel like to be a Bomber fan these days!

I went for baguette and pastry and we spent the rest of the morning and much of the afternoon reading. Alex and Max skyped again — that little smiling face is going to be a year old on Saturday!

At around 4pm we ventured out. It’s colder today too. We put on the jackets we wore when we first arrived here. Eleven degrees. We walked all the way down Martyrs and Montmartre and then turned east and wandered into the Marais and Bastille area — a part of Paris that we haven’t really explored so far.

We used one of Peter’s guidebooks to scout out a route for our walk. First up: The Centre Georges Pompidou, a large ugly museum just a block north of the Seine. We continued along Rue de Rivoli, a street with LOTS of fashionable stores. We made quite a number of stops along the way, looking for that elusive ‘very perfect’ purse. Eventually we found ourselves at the Place des Vosges, considered to be one of the prettiest squares in the city. Sue has been reading pretty much every book with ‘Paris’ in the title during our month here, and more and more, as we walk the streets here, we end up stumbling across places that are now ‘familiar’ to Sue from her books. So it was with this park — apparently Kati Marton (the author of Sue’s current book, “Paris: A Love Story”) and Richard Holbrooke enjoyed visiting this park. (And I’m finding corner bakeries that remind me of the setting of the book I just started reading today, “The Emperor of Paris”.)

Musée Picasso - closed for renovations, expected to reopen June 2014.
Musée Picasso – closed for renovations, expected to reopen June 2014.
We continued our walk, passing the Picasso Museum along the way. We knew it was closed due to renovations, but we stopped at the information office and took a little tour of another artist’s exhibition while we were there. We didn’t complete the circuit without visiting quite a few purse shops — which means I spent quite a bit of time just standing on the sidewalk outside the shop, watching people going by. And with the cooler temperatures these last couple of days, I’ve taken note of some more differences between Parisians and Manitobans. Just because it’s getting cold doesn’t mean you stop sitting outside at the corner cafe and drinking your coffee. And it doesn’t mean you bundle yourself up so you look like the Michelin man. No, just add a scarf and you’re good to go. And sit outside at your little table and smoke and text and drink your little espresso just like you always do.

We walked all the way back home, another 10km day for my poor tired feet! Sue bought another bottle of wine at the wine shop near our place. When we got home we had our usual ‘happy hour’ and I turned up the radiators in the apartment a bit. We dug out another DVD, “This American Life”, and watched a bit of that. At around 8:00 we went out for supper.

Just around the corner from our apartment is the Place Gustave Toudouze. It’s a great little square with a fountain and velib bike rentals and about 7 little restaurants with patios lined up in a row. We’ve eaten at most of them, but not at the ‘No Stress Cafe’. So tonight we went there. And it was great. Tapas and drinks. All delicious. Sitting outside under the patio heaters. Lots of young people there, all eating and smoking and looking gorgeous. Ah, Paris.

When we got home we again watched a couple of episodes of “Downton Abbey” on my computer. By midnight I was too tired to even write my journal, so we went to bed.

Paris, Day Twenty-four

Another day off today — in fact we barely left the apartment all day! For the first time since we arrived I did NOT go to the bakery for baguettes today. We had eggs for breakfast. We sat and read. There were showers on and off throughout the day, although there was also sunshine. Temperature was a bit colder again — we actually turn on some heat in the late afternoon. Alex and Max skyped with us. Sue was feeling less than 100%, in part because she (again!) didn’t sleep at night. We went out for a walk at around 8pm and went out for supper. Then we came home and watched the final two episodes of Downton Abbey, Season 1. That was good. Now we have 2 seasons left until we’ve caught up with the new episodes. We’ll need to buy them on iTunes because Peter only has season 1 on DVD. We went to bed a little after midnight.

Paris, Day Twenty-three: Fontainebleau

Fontainebleau is about 80kms south of Montmartre. Today we made a day trip to the exquisite Chateau de Fontainebleau, birthplace of Henri III and Louis XIII.

We had great intentions of getting away early, but it was 12 noon when we left the apartment. We took the subway down to the Gare de Lyon train station. We bought our train tickets and spent quite a bit of time running up and down various stairs and escalators looking for the right platform to leave by. We asked quite a few people for help, and were sent back and forth to different locations by each of them. Finally a young woman who spoke NO English looked up the schedule on her phone and then motioned for us to follow her as she led us up and around to yet another platform from where we eventually got on our train, leaving Paris at 1:19. We arrived at Fontainebleau at 2 o’clock. We took a local bus from the train station out to the large chateau. Once there we stopped at one of several cafes just outside the castle grounds and had lunch: a “croque-monsieur” (grilled ham and cheese sandwich) for me, and a “croque-madame” (the same, but with a fried egg on top) for the lady. After finishing lunch with a large beer and a small coffee, we headed to the museum.

We bought our entry tickets and the ‘audio guide’, which was pretty cool. You could walk around through all the rooms and the audio guide told you little stories about what you were looking at. The pace was good and the chateau was excellent! Huge! And once again it was a case of too much! You can only look at so many gold crowns and carved ceilings and floors and fancy chairs and beds in one afternoon! It feels wrong to finally just skip the audio tour and walk through a bunch of rooms without stopping and taking a photo, but that’s what you have to do. You just can’t do and see everything.

We walked around the gardens and grounds for a bit — once again, they were lovely, and so was the weather! Coolish, but the umbrellas stayed in Sue’s backpack today. We left the chateau and waited at the bus stop for a ride back to the train station. When we got to the train station we were told by the guy in the information window that the 5:30 train was cancelled due to a strike (“but eet eez honly a ver-r-y leetle str-r-ike”) and the next train back to Paris would come by at 6:00. So we sat on a bench and waited. We watched a couple of these ‘bullet’ trains go screaming right through the station without even slowing down, but our 6:00 train showed up right on time and we made it back to Paris by 6:35 and we were back home by 7:30.

Sue made a pasta dish for supper and then we settled in for another double episode of Downton Abbey. After a bit of wine and chocolate, and a little catching up with some more computer work for me, we finally went to bed at 2:00am.

Paris, Day Twenty-two: Joyeux 36ème anniversaire!

Hey, what’s this? I wake up, make a nice cup of coffee and put in a new pair of contacts, open the curtains so I can see the garbage truck that we hear every morning, sit down on the couch, put on my reading glasses and open up my laptop — and the first thing that pops up is a ‘reminder from Yahoo!’ Happy Anniversary, Rudy and Sue. I don’t even use my old Yahoo! account anymore. How nice that they still think of me and take the time to send me a friendly note like that.

Parking in Paris -- let's put another motorcycle in that empty space between the bumpers.
Parking in Paris — let’s put another motorcycle in that empty space between the bumpers. (Click to see another photo)

Yesterday I said something about how difficult it is for me to walk with Sue when we are on a crowded shopping street. But it isn’t entirely Sue’s fault. No, there is an even bigger chance that you will bump into a complete stranger on the street because the other person is looking down at their frigging phone! All the time. Everybody! On the sidewalk, on the crosswalk, even in the middle of the street. Even drivers do it — several times I’ve seen someone parallel park their vehicle and stop before they’re properly parked to pull out their phone and look at it and text or talk to somebody while the line of cars and buses behind them wait for the guy to park! (And that’s another topic — cars are parked so close together here on the street that you can’t even get a motorcycle parked between them — no, wait! I think there’s room between those two, so I’ll just back my motorcycle in between so that there’s NO way anyone can get out without us moving 3 other cars! And parking like that means they spend at least 10 minutes cranking the wheel and going back and forth until they’ve wiggled their way into the parking spot.) Anyway, I digress. I’ve read that the market for paid iPhone apps has more or less passed, that there are now so many phone apps available that you can find a free one for almost everything. That’s too bad, because I think there’s a great opportunity for someone to make an app that would warn a walking texter when there’s an obstacle near them. Hey, they now advertise cars that can parallel park themselves (no, I don’t think that will ever work here in Paris!) and even my old van has a beeper when I back up and get too close to something. Why not an app that beeps when you are about to smash into someone or something? With all the concern about concussions in hockey and football today it’s only a matter of time before they make helmets mandatory for people walking on the street! When I get home I’m getting an iPhone. And a dog.

And what, gentle reader, do you suppose was on Sue’s ‘to-do’ list when she woke up this morning? Why, SHOPPING! With me! On our anniversary! I should have known.

For breakfast we had something a little different today: a baguette and two pastries from a DIFFERENT bakery — it’s Martes and that means our bakery is FERME. After breakfast we listened to music and read for the rest of the morning. We had our lunch at around 2 in the afternoon. We were just about to leave for our shopping adventure when Alex skyped to wish us a happy anniversary — two in the afternoon here is seven in the morning back home. After the call we headed out for today’s adventure.

Le Bon Marche -- some of the most upscale shopping you can find in Paris.
Le Bon Marche — some of the most upscale shopping you can find in Paris.

We bought our second book of metro tickets and then took the metro from Saint-Georges to Sèvres-Babylone, the station right next to the big Le Bon Marché shopping centre, a 20-minute ride. No surprise when we got there — window displays with fake baby deer jumping over colored balloons and very expensive jewelry, big perfume counters fumigating visitors the minute they enter the store, fancy escalators and ceilings and mannequins. Pretty sales ladies and boys all dressed in black. Hooey, we are in for a GOOD time!

The good news was that EVERYTHING WAS ON SALE! Attractive little red cards advertised 30% and 40% OFF on just about everything in the store. (I guess the government shut-down in the U.S. even creates hard times for the kind of shoppers that shop here!) The bad news was that even with those discounts the purse Sue asked a saleslady about was 1400 Euros! That’s two thousand bucks! So for the next hour or so we went around the store looking at price tags and shaking our heads. A ridiculous little men’s scarf was $400. A very ordinary grey sweatshirt with ‘MUSTARD’ stencilled on the front was 285 Euros. A good shopper like Sue usually has a bit of a weak spot for a big discount — but in this case the red tags only gave her a moment’s pause. And then we were outta there.

Our mission for the day had suffered a minor setback, but we would not be deterred. Let’s just go across the street and look at some purses there — it’ll just take a few minutes. I could see that it would be in everybody’s best interest if I moseyed on down the road a bit and found me an outdoor cafe. Which I did. And that’s where half an hour later Sue tracked me down for the credit card.

Sue at the Tuileries Garden at the centre of Paris.
Sue at the Tuileries Garden at the centre of Paris.

paris-tuileries-garden-04After Sue had shown me the great bargains she had found, we wandered back towards home. It was late afternoon. We ended up back at the Tuileries Garden near the Louvre museum. We sat down in the metal park chairs next to the big fountain and looked around at the beautiful flowers and the green grass and the incredible art and architecture all around us. Paris is really a magical city. We’ve had a marvellous time here so far. We sat there for a while and rested our weary feet. And then we walked home.

happy anniversary!We stopped to pick up some champagne on our way home. When we got home we had a little happy hour with wine and cheese. Then at around 8:30 we headed back out for supper. Today, for our 36th anniversary, we decided that we would eat a NICE meal. So we went to the little French restaurant just around the corner from our place, “Les Affranchis”. (I just typed that into my handy-dandy translator and it says it means ‘Goodfellas’!) Well, compared to the last time we went to a ‘nice’ restaurant, this was fantastic! We ordered foie gras for a starter and Sue had veal liver for her main course and I had cod in a cream sauce. Excellent. Looked great, tasted even better. A delicious French coffee after dinner. Then home to watch the second episode of Downton Abbey. We’ve got champagne and chocolate for a night snack. I’ll let you know how the evening turns out — tomorrow.

Paris, Day Twenty-one

Rudy and Sue in front of one of two large lakes in Bois de Boulogne, a large park in western Paris.
Rudy and Sue in front of one of two large lakes in Bois de Boulogne, a large park in western Paris.

With ALL of Sue’s iPad weather apps now predicting rain for a couple of days at the end of this week, and with the sun already shining gloriously into our window as we ate our fresh pastries for breakfast this morning, there was nothing to do but to get off our butts and go see the sites of Paris. Still on Sue’s list: Bois de Boulogne, a large park in the west of Paris. And we should cycle in the park. Better yet, how about if we rent a couple of the Vélib’ bicycles that are available all over Paris and ride them to and in the park! Okay, I’ll ‘google’ it and we’ll be off shortly.

We were out of the house by 1:30. We were going to rent the bikes just around the corner from our place, but all 20 or 30 bikes that are often locked into their stands there were out! Okay, we’ll walk towards the metro and if we see some Vélib’ bikes available along the way we’ll do that. Isn’t that how it usually goes? You see bikes available ALL THE TIME, until you actually want to rent one. We ended up taking the subway out to the park.

Once there we found a bike lot FULL of bikes. We punched in our codes and soon we were circling around the roundabout on our bikes, looking for an exit sign that would lead us to the park. We carried our jackets in the bike carriers. The park is criss-crossed with walking and cycling and horse-riding paths but not a lot of signage. The park is supposedly crowded with hikers and bikers most weekends. Not so today. Today the park belongs to dogs. Dogs everywhere! Some on a leash, many not. Sue and I felt like we might be the only ones not accompanied by a yapping hound. I had read somewhere that Parisians prefer having their dogs shit on the sidewalks (which they do!) and that the parks are relatively free of dogs. That is not true; they take their dogs to shit in the park too.

The deal with the Vélib’ bike rentals is that the bike is free for the first 30 minutes, 1 Euro for the next 30 minutes, 2 Euros for the next 30, and 4 Euros per half hour after that. The system encourages you to go on 30-60 minute rides, but not to bugger off for the whole day. We cycled around for just over an hour and then returned our bikes to a bike station. We went for a short walk to another bike station and took out bikes again. We cycled around some more, getting lost, checking the map, through the bush, past the big lake, and whew! there’s the entrance we came through earlier and the bike station. We returned the bikes and decided to walk back home.

Rudy and Sue at the top of the Arc de Triomphe, with the Eiffel Tower in the distance.
Rudy and Sue at the top of the Arc de Triomphe, with the Eiffel Tower in the distance.

The way home led us to the Arc de Triomphe. When we got there I could see people at the top of the famous landmark. We decided to check out the view of Paris from the big arch too. We lined up for tickets and then climbed up the nearly 300 stairs to the top. The view was great. We walked all around, looking at the Parisian skyline. We could see the Sacré Coeur church on the top of the Montmartre hill (near our apartment). We could see the Eiffel Tower. We could see the skyscrapers of the commercial centre of Paris. We took some photos.

We wound our way down the spiral stairs again and then walked along the Champs Elysees boulevard.

Walking along the vibrant and busy Champs-Élysées (pronunciation: ‘Tante Liese’), doing my best to follow Sue through the throngs of shoppers, stopping suddenly and randomly to look at something in the window of one of the many high end shop windows (Zara, Louis Vuitton, Hugo Boss, Lancel, etc) I was reminded of our honeymoon in London. In fact, it was 36 years ago tomorrow that Sue and I got married. And as I recall, it was on that honeymoon in London, England where I made an observation: it’s better for Sue and I NOT to go shopping together. I remember trying to walk in the shopping district of London and regularly bashing into Sue when she stopped to look at something that interested her. No brake lights, no warning. Kaboom. And here we are, 36 years later, still bumping into each other, literally. You’d think that after all these years together I’d have learned better.

We stopped for a beer in one of the many sidewalk cafes on the boulevard. Sue suggested we walk home from there — it’s only about 4 or 5 kms. But my feet were sore and I was now eager to try cycling in the streets. We stopped at a bike station and rented two bikes again. The difference between walking and cycling in a big city is that when you walk you can stop and read the little blue street name signs on the buildings located at street corners. You can look around and even stop to look at your map. When you’re cycling you have to watch out for pedestrians, for cars and taxis and buses, for each other (making sure you BOTH zipped through the intersection before the light turned red). We got a little lost and eventually stopped on the sidewalk and checked the map. And we got home in time to check the bikes in at the neighbourhood parking lot within the free half hour.

Sue made supper while I deleted blurry photos from my camera. After supper we had a second glass of wine and put our tired feet up. We were planning to watch Season 1 of Downton Abbey but discovered that Peter’s DVD is missing disc one of the 3-DVD set. Hmmm… Well, I can download the series in iTunes and we can watch it on the computer. Good idea, especially considering that the iPad says it’s going to RAIN for the rest of the week! So that’s the plan.

Paris, Day Twenty

Whoa, there was some kind of party outside our apartment last night. Lots of people being loud, just around the corner from our place — and we don’t know what all the celebration was about. It didn’t really bother us though — I slept like a log and Sue was up until 4am.

This morning I went to the bakery and stood in line for a bit — every Sunday there’s a ‘street fair’ on Martyrs and for some reason that means that everyone in the neighbourhood comes to buy baguettes and pastries — one line going into the bakery, and another lining up at a special table selling bread outside the bakery. After breakfast we sat around for a while watching ‘our shows’ on CNN — Fareed interviewed Bono on GPS and later we saw Candy Crawley interview a bunch of politicians about the government ‘shut-down’. I watched a few NFL football talk shows online too.

Sue was getting a bit chilled just sitting and reading, so we decided to go for a walk before lunch. It was a bit cooler today, probably about 18 degrees, but the sun was shining and so we went for at least an hour’s walk, all the way to the Gare du Nord train station and back. When we got close to home I started looking for a pastry shop that sold ‘Croque Monsieurs’ but everyone was sold out. So we opted for pizza instead, and brought it back to our place for lunch. It was already late afternoon. We had just sat down to eat when our Skype announced an incoming call. Tim and Alex and Max, having Sunday morning breakfast at home. The news from home was about the Thanksgiving meal they had with the Penner family last night — apparently Sue’s mom just barely survived the dinner. She’d choked on her food and had to rushed to the hospital by ambulance. Thankfully she’s okay now. So the phone call was just to let us know what happened.

After lunch Sue read for a while and I played on my computer. At around 6:30 we headed out to the Belushi’s bar to watch some NFL. We got there and ordered our pitcher of beer. We’d decided NOT to eat there, since the last two Sunday’s we’ve been disappointed by the food. So, because we’d had a late lunch, we planned to come home after the first games and eat at home. The Vikings had a bye this week, but the Giants were playing the Eagles, hoping for their first win. Sadly, they lost again, so they are now 0-5 — and it’s not looking like it will be getting any better any time soon. Oh well, at least the little schnirps with the Detroit Lions jersey and the electronic cigarettes didn’t get to cheer too much today either — his Lions lost badly to the Packers. We left the bar at around 11pm and walked home. I watched the second game on my computer — and it was a dandy! The Broncos managed to kick a last second field goal to stay at 5-0 against the home team Cowboys in a wild shootout, 51-48. The game was over at around 2am, our time.

Another great day here in Paris, although today certainly wasn’t very ‘Parisian’ — CNN, pizza, and NFL. Like my mom always says, ‘That you can do in Steinbach, too!’

Paris, Day Nineteen

Saturday — another ‘day off’. Especially after yesterday’s long day. So we woke up late and lazed around. Had scrambled eggs and a baguette for breakfast — I guess the bacon will have to wait until we get home. We read and listened to music for most of the day. I finished watching the movie I didn’t finish last night. Alex and Max skyped in the afternoon. In the evening we went out down Martyrs Street looking for supper. We stopped at the grocery store to pick up a few things and then Sue went to a Greek restaurant and ordered take-out while I went to a Chinese restaurant and did the same. Back at the apartment we ate our supper and watched a couple of movies. And then to bed.

Paris, Day Eighteen: The Louvre

October 4, visit to the Louvre MuseumFor as little as we did yesterday, we made up for it today! Our morning started off as usual: bakery, coffee, fruit, reading. We spent quite a bit of time looking online at winter options in Florida. Nothing great (yet). We’d decided to visit the Louvre today because it’s open late on Friday and we always start late anyway. And so, after lunch, and even though at least 3 out of 4 of Sue’s weather apps on the iPad were forecasting rain, we packed up our little backpack with jackets and umbrellas and walked down to the Louvre.

portapotties around the fountainOur walk down took half an hour. We walked down a few streets that we’d not walked along before and discovered a sort of ‘chinatown’ area with lots of asian restaurants, something we’d not seen a lot of around our neighbourhood. We also passed this big square with a fountain surrounded by ‘porta-potties’ — I guess they just got tired of having people piss in the fountain so they just put up toilets all around it!

We’d done a bit of research about how best to visit the Louvre. We decided that instead of trying to see EVERYTHING in one day (well, the second half of the day in our case!) we should make a ‘top ten’ list and get a map and plan to see the highlights. Online guides said it was impossible to do it justice in only a few hours. They also advised visitors to NOT use the main entrance, where we’d have to stand in line for hours just waiting to buy tickets. But when we got to the glass pyramid entrance, the line was quite short and moving along steadily. So we bought our tickets there and went inside. We got our map and Sue ticked off the things we should see. And off we went.

The museum certainly is a big place, with 4 floors and many, many hallways and rooms. It’s easy to get lost. The good thing is that even if you get lost you will likely still see all kinds of great art and sculpture that will either be of the ‘naked’ variety or remind you of the pictures they used to have posted up around the classrooms in Sunday School. So ‘lost’ is really a relative term.

It didn’t actually take us all that long to check off our list! Surprisingly, the museum wasn’t all that crowded on this Friday afternoon. Sure, you could always figure out when you were getting close to one of the ‘significant’ works of art because there would be a group of people (and often one or two guides) huddled around it. And the museum has things laid out so that all the major pieces are spread out throughout the museum, a bit like the TV cable packages — you can’t just quickly pick and choose the good ones and not pay for the ones you don’t want.

You can actually see all of these things way better by looking at some of the many online versions (or those posters in Sunday School) but hey, we’re here, and I have to snap some photos (just like everyone else is) just to prove I was here. Too bad we’re not allowed to use flash — I don’t think that our handy-dandy little smile-saver can take pictures in the dark without a flash. Well, maybe my friend Jim Peters could set the ISO properly and hold the camera steady enough not to come back with a SD card filled with blurry grainy masterpieces, but not I. Still, I had to try. So here’s a little gallery of some of the photos I managed to salvage:

photographers crowd around the Mona LisaAnd, of course, the most famous painting of them all, the Mona Lisa. Dave Driedger, who apparently went to the Louvre to try to decipher the DaVinci Code, warned me that the Mona Lisa was much smaller in real than what he had imagined. I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder, because when I finally muscled my way through the crowd of iPhoners to get my own photo, to me she looked a bit ‘chubby’.

La Pyramide Inversée at the Carrousel du LouvreSo after spending about 4 hours at the Louvre, including a short ‘coffee break’ at a cafe under the glass pyramid, we’d seen just about everything! In fact, we saw quite a few displays twice and some even THREE times! (Even with a map, it’s easy to get a bit disoriented and end up going up and down the same hallway several times before you realize this really is the same statue we saw earlier!) On our way out of the museum we walked past an upside-down glass pyramid. This was the famous “La Pyramide Inversée” at the Carrousel du Louvre. And there, right in front of me, was another Apple Store, the first one in Paris. And next to the Apple Store were a few very high-end purse-and-shoe stores. I took a photo of one of them, Lancel, which had an enormous chandelier hanging inside the store. While Sue amused herself by going in to talk to the saleslady, I checked out the prices of a couple of purses in the window: that’s just over $2700 for the black and white purse, $2600 for the red ‘fake crocodile’ purses, and the black purses on sale for half price! Alex would love this!

Sue beside the SeineWe escaped without taking the credit card out of Sue’s backpack. Not so for the umbrella, though. Just as we were about to cross the bridge on the Seine River, a light shower began. Well, how about those forecasters! See? Some of them WERE right! The sprinkles lasted only as long as it took us to find our umbrellas and figure out how to open them. (It took us a bit longer to find out how to close them again!) And then it was time for a nice romantic walk along the Seine, just like in the movies. It was fabulous. Hardly any people out on a Friday night in Paris! A beautiful sunset. Riverboats all lit up with fancy dining rooms and dance music. Lovers and tourists sitting on sidewalk benches and sharing a bottle of wine (or a couple of big cans of beer).

October 4, visit to the Louvre MuseumWe made our way over one of the bridges to ÃŽle de la Cité (one of the 2 islands in the Seine) and headed back to the Notre Dame Cathedral. Sue wanted to see it at night when it gets all lit up. We sat in the big temporary ‘bleachers’ in front of the church and watched the sunset and the street entertainers in front of the church. By 8:00pm it was dark outside, the church was lit up, and it was time to find a place for supper. We walked around the back of the church and across the bridge to the other island.

Sunset on the SeineThis is Paris, so that means there’s at least one brassiere or restaurant at every corner, and usually there are four. So we looked at a few menus and then sort of picked one at random where there was an open table outside on the sidewalk. We could sit here and watch people and still see the boats going under the bridge along the Seine. All that was missing was the accordion music! We ordered foie gras for a starter and shared a big pot of steamed mussels and homemade french fries for our meal. Yummy! Crazy-good. Sitting outside at a little restaurant in Paris on a Friday night in October, no jackets, no umbrellas, eating foie gras and watching the boats go by!

After sitting for an hour and eating a nice meal, we felt refreshed and decided we would WALK back home instead of taking the metro. We walked back across the bridge and down along the river, past the Louvre, past the now packed Chinese restaurants, past the bars with people literally spilling out onto the streets. (So THAT’S where all the people go on a Friday night.) My poor tired feet! I have a new appreciation for the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage that our friends Ed’n’Millie did this summer! I’ve walked so much here that when I got home tonight my nice new socks were WORN THROUGH! Shot! Holes in the toes and heels! When I get up in the morning it takes me the entire walk to the bakery and back just to get the balls of my feet loosened up enough so I don’t have to walk bow-legged. We figured we walked about 15 kms today. And the Hildebrands did TWICE that, every day for more than 2 weeks! YIKES!

When we got home we pulled off our shoes, got into our sweats, poured ourselves another glass, and sat down to watch another French movie. (Tonight’s feature was “Les Quatre Cents Coups”, a French ‘classic’ from 1959.) I managed to stay up long enough to enjoy a dish of chocolate ice cream, but I must have had too much excitement today to last until the end of the movie. Zzz-z-z-z-z.

Paris, Day Seventeen

Got a Skype call today from Alex (and Max). And what prompted that? Well, Alex was wondering if we were still getting along after reading yesterday’s blog entry! What? Getting along? Doesn’t she know that when you’re off on an adventure on the other side of the world, and the only person that you know is your travelling companion whom you love, you HAVE to get along! So if I sounded like I was having a bit of a rant yesterday, I need to correct that. It was merely an ‘observation’; a ‘learning experience’. But hey, if we’re going to have the pleasure of a Skype call every time Alex thinks we’re having a spat, I may have to hang out some more dirty laundry!

It was another fine day here. So we did nothing. And there will be no photos (and no rants) today. We spent most of the day inside. I did computer work, Sue did laundry and read. Oh, and we had another Skype with Dave Driedger. There was a small shower or two in the late afternoon. We went around the corner to the Lebanese restaurant for supper — sat at an outside table. About halfway through the meal it started to sprinkle again — so they extended the awning out over top of us and we stayed dry. Back home after a fine meal, we watched another movie, ‘Nathalie’ (French, with English subtitles). We’ve seen this plot before but it was a pretty good ‘tiet-fedreef’ nonetheless. That’s it from the ‘France-hosers’.

Paris, Day Sixteen: Père Lachaise Cemetery

Marcel Proust's grave at Père Lachaise Cemetery.
Marcel Proust’s grave at Père Lachaise Cemetery.

Yeah, you read that title right — another cemetery visit in Paris.

We awoke to another beautiful sunny morning here in Paris. I got up by nine and started doing some computer work. Sue hadn’t slept well at night (too many worries — about what? oh, nothing!) so she slept a bit longer. So I had a coffee and tapped away at my keyboard.

When Sue got up I went to the bakery for a pastry and got some fruit from the little market across the street. Sue doddled around for most of the morning, getting herself all dolled up for the afternoon visit to the most famous cemetery in Paris: the Père Lachaise Cemetery.

After lunch — actually WELL after lunch — we left the apartment and went to the Pigalle metro station. We took the metro nearly to the end of the run. I’d looked up the directions online, so when we got off the train it was just a 5-minute walk down a back alley to the cemetery. Similar to the Montmartre cemetery, but way bigger. And a big hill in the middle. We went in through the entrance and stopped to get a map — oops, NO map available. Oh well, we’ll just look at the big board map at the entrance, note the location of the important (dead) people’s graves we want to see, and then we’ll be off. No, that won’t work. You really need a map for this necropolis!

Jim Morrison's grave at Père Lachaise Cemetery.
Jim Morrison’s grave.

Well, I know approximately where Jim Morrison’s grave is supposed to be — we’ll just head in that direction and then look for other visitors/tourists and that will lead us to the right spot. That theory actually worked! And there, surrounded by a metal railing to keep fanatics away, with a guard watching fulltime, was Jim Morrison’s grave — sort of tucked in behind the front row of stones. Well, that was exciting! What if I actually like Jim Morrison and the Doors? Wow, then this would be REALLY exciting. Okay, who’s next on the list? Are there any other (dead) singers or poets or writers we’ve heard of?

Oscar Wilde's grave at Père Lachaise Cemetery.
Oscar Wilde’s grave.

Yes, there’s Oscar Wilde’s grave. We met a nice Irish man who gave us his map — he just wanted to go visit this grave — so we did too. Looks like a few women (or men?) have given the tombstone a kiss!

Edith Piaf's grave in Père Lachaise Cemetery.
Edith Piaf’s grave.

Not far from Oscar Wilde we found the grave of Edith Piaf.

Frederic Chopin's grave at Père Lachaise Cemetery.
Frederic Chopin’s grave.

And then, on the way back out we stopped by Frederic Chopin’s tomb. And as if walking all afternoon in the park-like setting of this huge cemetery wasn’t enough exercise, Sue suggested that we walk back to our apartment! that’s more than 5kms and my feet were already aching.

But I’ve learned another important lesson on this holiday: I used to laugh at how Sue often used (the royal) ‘we’ when referring to an idea that SHE had. But that’s not all there’s to it. It’s become clear to me that when Sue makes a decision or books a social engagement for the two of us, then ‘WE’ talked about it and decided it, whether I was a part of it or not. If everything turns out well at said engagement she will say ‘What a good idea SHE had’ or ‘I’m sure glad I didn’t let YOU nix that idea.’ If said engagement doesn’t turn out so well, it’s MY fault. And don’t even argue about it or dispute it or try rationalizing it in any way — it’s MY fault. Period. It’s a no-win deal for Rudy, no matter how it turns out! That said, today’s little excursion to the cemetery was “a VERY PERFECT thing to do.” Yes it was.

Where's Waldo
Where’s Waldo?

We popped into a few shoe and purse stores on the return hike, but left each store without a bag to carry. Once we got close to home, we stopped at the nearby Carrefour grocery store and walked out with a couple of big bags of groceries. One final stop at the little corner wine shop and then we dragged our tired feet up the flight of stairs to our apartment.

After a well-deserved happy hour Sue sent Rudy out to pick up some supper. I returned from the corner Bistro with a big cheeseburger and some fries. Not so bad with a bottle of wine! And then we watched the sequel to yesterday’s movie (“Before Sunrise”), “Before Sunset”, which was shot here in Paris. We had some ice cream for a snack and went to bed a little after 1 a.m.