Fall Colours Tour 2023

Morning dawns and the rain has stopped. We are happy to leave and to head to Nashville but before we go I am going to check out the craft show at the convention centre in town. Rudy drops me off and heads for a walk.

There are about 200 hundred vendors. The variety is huge. About 3/4 of them I am not very interested in. However some are really cool. There are the traditional mountain basket makers. These baskets are so sturdy and made from various trees that are split. There is one vendor who constructs small replica buildings out of wood and stone. There are old cabins, pool halls, churches, etc. and each of them are decorated with tiny furnishings and other paraphernalia. There are intricate and definitely reflect the buildings and places here in the history of this area. At one booth there are intricate knives and old replica rifles. Overall the hour I spend there is satisfying. Unfortunately there were no pictures allowed of the products.

And off we head to Nashville. It is mostly freeway driving and we leave the beautiful scenery behind. Once in Nashville we settle into our hotel and then take a shuttle down to the strip. It is just what you would expect; bars with bands, bookshops (selling cowboy boots and hats), and barbecue eateries. We wander from open window to open window listening to the music and occasionally stopping for a beer and a listen. We end up at Robert’s Honky Tonk and make our way to the balcony. We get a front seat. It is all magical. I love it. We are starving but in this type of venue along the strip the options are few. Rudy orders what is called the recession special — a fried baloney sandwich, a bag of plain chips, a moon pie, and a Pabst Blue Ribbon beer to wash it all down — all for $6! I order onion rings. We gobble them down.

The evening is eventful. Americans are super-friendly. A young man sits down on the stool beside Rudy and introduces himself.

So where are y’all from? Me? Well, I’m from a small town in North Carolina called Mount Airy?

Oh yeah? Well we were just there on the weekend.

For the Autumn Leaves Festival? Hey, I was working there. I made a quite a bit of money so now I’m here in Gatlinburg, spending it in this bar. Actually I’m the driver for this gentleman sitting here at my table. Do you read? Well, you may have heard of my friend — he’s Martin Clark, an author, and he’s doing a promotional book tour and I’m his driver.

We’re introduced to Martin Clark, who smiles at us and says hello. We turn back to listen to the band, and quietly google Martin Clark on our phones. Hmmm… Looks like Mr Clark is actually a pretty important and famous author — the New York Times calls him “the thinking man’s John Grisham.” Perhaps that will be the next book that I read.

After finishing our beers we wander up and down Broadway for a bit longer and then take the shuttle back to the hotel and settle in for the night. We’ve booked this hotel for two nights so for once we don’t need to worry about packing up and moving on in the morning. Ahhh… all is well.

I am not much interested in writing about this day because overall it was a downer. We woke up to rain and headed out. The dreary grey skies did not give much hope for the trail hiking that I had enthusiastically planned for today. We drove to Gatlinburg and up into the scenic loop. The rain did not stop.

As we continued on the VERY slow drive we began to meet cars with snow on their hoods and roofs. As we drove further up the mountain the snow got thicker. It was all quite beautiful and even though it felt like we were freezing to the bone we did get out at various stops. We hardly felt like hardy Manitobans as we shivered and hopped back into the van after short forays.  On the way down we actually did see a bear and cub so that was really sweet.

Back in Gatlinburg we searched for our hotel and finally found it. It was pretty awful and we were both feeling a little down. The rain continued to pour. We were trapped in our hotel room. We did run across the street to a Honduran restaurant to have supper. This was a highlight as it was exactly like what you would find in Central or South America — two TVs with low quality Spanish programming, electrical wires all over the place, only Spanish speaking customers, bad art, and plastic flowers. It felt just like home and the authentic food that we ordered from the kitchen was just what you would expect. I had tamales and Rudy had shrimp and rice. We ran back to our hotel in the pouring rain, stripped out of our soaked clothes and made the best of the rest of the evening by reading.

Mmmm. It was a great sleep. We head off with renewed vigour. After breakfast at a local one of a kind breakfast place (McDonalds….have you ever heard of it?), we head down the road. We hadn’t gone far when our conversation turned to where, in Steinbach, the Krahns live. ( I am completely unsure what convoluted conversation took us to that topic, but I can assure you that the conversation was very important and it was VERY necessary to establish exactly where their house was.) The discussion got heated (but only slightly). Rudy was sure that the street (he called it a bay) curved. I understood this to mean that it curved back to Henry St.  I was sure it was straight. I knew it was, since I was sure that it intersected with Hespeler at a right angle. We argued over the street’s name. I won a point in the discussion by identifying the street as Evergreen Avenue. Rudy, seemingly annoyed by my knowledge, took another tack. It had to be curved because Beaver Crescent was behind the Lutheran Church. That seemed irrelevant to me and I stated as much.  He said it was of no importance what the name of the street was but rather the fact that it was curved. At this point I took out my phone to check it all out on Google maps. Rudy’s feelings of annoyance escalated and because he could not see the map, he announced, quite emphatically, that he would just PULL OVER. Despite the busy traffic he pulled onto the shoulder and we examined the map. He was happy to find that the street was curved and therefore felt he had won the argument. I also was happy to have won as Evergreen does straighten out and intersects Hespeler at right angles. Both, being contented with our superior knowledge, happily continued our journey.

We decided today to take an 11 mile loop in the Great Smoky Mountains through Caden’s Cove. It is a very slow drive that winds through beautiful scenery (do I say the same thing every day?). The weather was overcast and cool. We stopped at some old homesteads and walked through the trees.

After spending much of the morning idling our van in bumper-to-bumper single-file around the busy one-way circuit, we exited the loop and headed to Pigeon Forge. I imagined a rustic place but when we arrived we were shocked to find that it is more like a Las Vegas for the christians of America. It is filled with a million amusement parks, hotels, arcades, souvenir places,  and ice cream shops. All of the amusements are geared towards wholesome family fun. I noticed a comedy theatre that offered daily shows and immediately googled it, only to find that the program was mostly juggling and corny (but ‘clean’) jokes. We found a laundromat and did our laundry and then checked into our hotel. Tomorrow we will head to Gatlinburg which seems like it will suit us much better. Apparently we’ll find hiking trails and more scenic drives in the Smoky Mountains there.

Oh my goodness! We stayed in the worst hotel. The bed was barely bigger than a twin (I exaggerate, but only a bit). The cigarette burns on the coverlet were very off putting and the pillows were a lumpy mess. The carpet had just been put in during the day and so at least it was clean but the carpet glue smell was overpowering. The noise from other rooms went on until late in the night but, even if it hadn’t, the mattress was made of plastic and made a terrible scrunchy noise and the bed squeaked with every movement. We woke early, had a shower, and got out of Dodge. No need to describe the coffee or tea we may have gotten in the reception area because we did not avail ourselves of the brew.

We head off on the curvy scenic routes again. We pass places like Fancy Gap and Hillsville. There are Christmas tree farms, and meadows where livestock graze. Farms with old wooden barns and old farmhouses dot the countryside. It is beautiful and we forget about the dreadful hotel and the terrible sleepless night we spent there.

We make our way to Loudon Tennessee. The hotel is not that great but 5 million times better than last night. We settle in and go for a walk. But the walking is not that good so we head off in our van to a local Mexican restaurant. The food is great and the restaurant is filled almost completely with Spanish speaking customers. After we return to the restaurant I read and Rudy falls asleep, trying to catch up from yesterday’s sleepless night. Al in all, it has been a chill day.

Do I need to talk about breakfast again today? Yup. sure do! Today we have someone serving us hand and foot. The hotel has been really nice (at least by the standards of this trip) and they even go the extra mile at breakfast. You’d think that might be a step up but in this case, it is not.  The lady, and I mean a real southern lady with a great accent and all, hovers over us. She cooks us waffles (VERY toasted, although Rudy seems to love the rock hard offerings).  Rudy’s coffee is just slightly warmed. But all in all it is better than usual. I have some delicious chocolate milk (I used to hate the stuff) and a couple of tangerines. Stay tuned for tomorrow’s breakfast report.

After breakfast we rush off to downtown Mt. Airy to the much talked about Fall Festival. It seems like many towns in this neck of the woods have a fall festival. And so they should. Fall days seem to linger on and on and the temperature of 25 degrees is certainly nothing to complain about. We park our van and head down the miles and miles of street vendors. The people watching is good. It is amazing how many old folks are buying their fall and Christmas wreaths and decorations. Rudy and I pass on those. The food offering are all what you might expect: roast corn, funnel cakes (a type of donut thing), hot dogs, corn dogs, deep fried apple pies, candy apples, and more. There is bluegrass music and even a hell fire and brimstone street preacher.  People have their dogs out in the doggy walkers and the snippets of conversation that we overhear are worth repeating.

Hell Fire Preacher: “The Lawrd Jeesus don wanna see yawr cheeks when yaw bend ova….”

Middle Aged Southern Lady: (referring to the three pug dogs in the doggy stroller) “Eye naymed them Lavender, Buddercup,  and Huneysuckle. My little baybies”

Her Husband: “Yeaass, she naymed them after her fayvorite perfume..”

Dad: (to the teenage daughter) Hey Sweethaart, we movin'”

Middle Age Man: (to a friend) Years ago we done had a good agriculture minister. Ya know, not one that went to jail….”

we get real hot and tired and so we wander away from the crowds and end up at the Mayberry jail, courthouse, etc. that was used in the Andy Griffith Show years ago. I dimly remember it so we snap some pictures.

As usual I marvel at the old houses we pass and take some pictures of these homes probably owned originally by the wealthy Virginian tobacco farm owners.

Then off we go to our new hotel for the night. Because things are packed out in town we have to stay where we can get a place. Ug! It is terrible. Not sure whether this is a place they rent by the hour or by the night. We have no option so must stay here. We have a sandwich at the picnic table in front of the motel and head back into town for an evening concert and walk around.

Just when we think that we know what is going to happen the next day (more scenery on the Blue Ridge Parkway) we are surprised. But before I talk about the day’s adventures I must report on breakfast. Breakfast, a la continental, has become repetitive and it is hard to face it in the morning. For those of you who know me, you know I like a good cup of tea in the morning. I am a tea snob. I prefer a double bergamot earl grey with milk and honey. On this trip all that is offered in America’s Favorite Tea. Or at least that is how the Lipton’s sawdust tea is labeled. But….I have figured out how to make the best of it. Only steep it for a scant minute or so. Don’t allow the bitter flavours to take over. Then go to the fridge for the milk. Bypass the fake cream in the basket. Put a little white sugar in it and drink it hot. After the usual waffles and a delicious sausage patty (my standards are slipping) we head on down the trail. Even though we may have tired

The roads are curvy and the foliage is beautiful. Although the fall colours are not at their prime, they are still amazing. The landscape has changed. We are not driving on ridges now but rather through farmlands and meadows and, of course, the trees. We are experiencing rural America. There are run down (and regular) mountain houses with front verandahs complete with rocking chairs. There are wrap around verandas on some houses, and ponds and the names for roads are things like Snake Road and  Parsons Gap.We stop at Rocky Knob to go to the washroom and enjoy a walk around the vehicle and down the path. The sun is shining brightly and many people have set up their lawn chairs beside their cars and are enjoying the warm October weather. At Mabry’s Mill we are inundated with senior’s tours as they take in the authentic water wheel that runs a corn mill and saw mill. Seniors, literally on their last legs (hunched over with walkers) have lined up for the authentic meal at the mill restaurant.

After this we press on to the Blue Ridge Music Center where we listen to a couple of bluegrass musicians. One old man, who must be in his nineties, sings and plays guitar. His voice is thin with age but he has great stories and knows a lot of music. His musical partner is younger and plays the mandolin and violin. It is rich. we tour the music history museum. It is well done and pays tribute to folk music in America. Afterwards we decide our destination for the night is Mount Airy. It is famous for being the birthplace of Andy Griffith. The Andy Griffith show was popular in the 1960s. I remember the actor Don Knotts but other than that I am vague about it all. We pull into town and find a motel, only to find that there is going to be a huge fall festival going on in town this weekend. There are 3 stages with music as well as loads of vendors. We decide to stay in this town for two nights. Can barely wait until tomorrow. It may be a bust but really I am excited for the adventure no matter what.

After a supper of bread and cheese, olives, grapes, and wine, we turn in for the night.

You never know what’s around the corner and we are going to find out tomorrow.

It is on to the Blue Ridge Parkway Drive today. This drive is over 400 miles and we are not sure whether we will do the whole thing. We have been averaging around 40 miles per hour on the twisty roads. The trees often completely canopy the road and there are lookouts every few miles.

But before we hit the drive we head for our free continental breakfast. Although we are barely into this routine, it already seems a bit old. Rudy says that the hot brown water that is offered can in no way be mistaken for coffee. I pass on the tea. Rudy has the waffles and I have a few scrambled eggs, and some Raisin Bran cereal.  It all sounds way better than it is. I overhear another group at the table beside us reading the ingredient list on the yogurt container and commenting that they have never had this much added sugar by this time in the morning before in their lives. Thank goodness though, there is 0% fat in the yogurt. 🙂

Rudy had discovered at public golf course on our route when researching the trip in Manitoba and this is where we head this morning. It costs $10 for nine holes. Rudy thinks it is terrible but I love it, partly because I have some decent shots in the first number of holes. But no matter what, it is an adventure and lots of fun. Not the least is the beautiful walk in the cool sunny air which, by the time we get to the 9th hole, has become very warm.

We hop in our van and are on the road by 11 o’clock. It feels great to be on the road again and basically we gaze at the beautiful trees and the vistas for hours. We are a bit like the quintessential tourists, pulling over every few miles to hop out of the van and take photos of the vistas.

We arrive in Roanoke, Virginia around 4. I head out to find a park to walk around and then Rudy and I meet at a Mexican restaurant for supper. The food is pretty authentic, and Rudy washes his down with a Margarita and I wash mine down with an Agua de Tamarindo. Time to get back to the hotel and write the blog entry.

 

 

 

After breakfast we get back in the van and go into Cumberland to see the historic centre. It is chock full of all sorts of history. This area is central to the French and Indian Wars  and important because of the canal from here to Washington (approximately 180 miles). Mules and people pulled the huge barges full of goods between the centres. Now, bikers ride the trail from Pittsburgh to Washington, through the mountains. Many zipped by us while we wandered the area. We also walked up the steep streets to various churches and the area where the fort once stood. The air was cool and misty and it felt very much like fall. There is a historic steam engine train that runs around the area.

We then headed down the skyline parkway for another 100 miles to Waynesburo.  Along the way we stopped for a picnic lunch at one of the lookouts. Waynesburo turned out to be charming. For dinner we walked down the Main Street to a restaurant called Heritage on Main. Tucked in between historic buildings this warehouse type structure was a fine dining experience. Rudy had shrimp fettuccini and I had ravioli with lobster

 

 

 

 

Today we head south. We will not see anyone we know for the rest of the trip. Unless, of course, we randomly run into someone. Highly unlikely, but not totally out of the question as stranger things have happened. I remember one trip we went on years ago where we were on a long hiking trail far from home, going to look at some ancient rock paintings. We rounded a corner and I heard one of the kids exclaim, oh hi, Jack and Gloria. Wouldn’t you know it. Our very next door neighbours on Kokomo road were on the path in front of us.

Today we travel through the states of New York, Pennsylvania, and make it to La Vale, Maryland. The scenery is fantastic and the ancient brick and stone houses amazing. Everything is old. The houses along the small winding roads are mostly small and many of them rundown. In the bigger towns there are signs of prosperity. The trees are turning colour and the hills are beautiful. We pass through ski resort towns and other small villages and bigger towns.

We stop for the night around supper time and go to the grocery store for bread and cheese and wine for supper and groceries for lunch on the road tomorrow. I try to catch up on the days and days of blogs I have not yet posted and Rudy works on resizing photos to post along with the writing. Hopefully we will get into a rhythm now that it is just the two of us. It feels like we are on stage two of our travels.

We spend another leisurely breakfast with Cathy and Dave. Lynette, who lives upstairs, comes down for a morning coffee and we have a good conversation with some great insights into differences in viewpoint based on country of origin (Lynette is American). It is always fascinating to become aware of my own blindspots that occur merely because of where I am sitting.

Anyway, after breakfast we head off to St. Catherine’s to visit Mart and Virlon (relatives of Rudy). The drive is rainy and cold and not much fun for the one driving (Rudy). We arrive late afternoon and Rudy is immediately comfortable. These are Rudy’s people. He has known them for years and conversation flows easily. Mart is a great cook and I am regaled with stories of some of the crazy experiences they have had with neighbours since they moved to Southern Ontario six years ago.

It is a great evening. But we are winding down with our visits. Tomorrow we head out on our own down into the US.